A Weekend in New York City: Upper East Side Edition
Museums, Central Park, and the city's best black and white cookie
When I first moved to New York, I lived for a short stretch on the Upper East Side. And while the neighborhood definitely had its charms (Central Park, all-night diners, dogs tucked into purses that for sure cost more than my rent), it could feel a little sleepy for a 20-something, 20-something years ago.
In recent years, though, the UES has had a bit of a transformation. The Frick Collection just reopened after a five-year, $220 million renovation, with refreshed galleries and new public spaces. Just up the street, The Surrey has also been reborn, bringing a glossy new stay to the neighborhood. Add in a steady trickle of new openings—from cafés to boutiques along Madison and Lexington—and it feels like the area has some new mojo without losing its old-New-York bones, brownstone blocks, corner bars, and yes, those purse dogs.
I recently returned to the UES for a few nights, and I highly recommend a visit, especially this time of year. Make it your home base for a weekend of holiday-mode New York: go ice skating in Central Park, see the tree and Neapolitan Baroque crèche at The Met, wander Madison Avenue’s twinkly windows, and end the night with a martini and live piano at Bemelmans Bar.
On a leafy Upper East Side corner, the polished, residential-esque Surrey, A Corinthia Hotel, makes an ideal NYC weekend home base. You’re half a block from Central Park and Madison Avenue’s boutiques, with Casa Tua downstairs for a glam Italian dinner. The new Bridge Suites, designed by Martin Brudnizki were inspired by Central Park’s iconic bridges and feel like chic city apartments, with spacious living rooms, deep soaking tubs, and leafy views.
The big neighborhood (and national) news is that the Frick Collection reopened in April 2025. On the heels of a gorgeous renovation that refreshed the Gilded Age mansion, including its galleries and 70th Street garden, the museum is more exquisite than ever—and now includes Westmoreland. The museum’s first-ever restaurant is a jewel-box café on the second floor with pastel tones and a dreamy landscape mural inspired by Henry Clay Frick’s private Pullman car. (Put your name on the wait list for lunch as soon as you arrive.) A visit to the the Metropolitan Museum of Art is always a good idea, but I especially love the museum around the holidays when you can see the Christmas Tree and Neapolitan Baroque Crèche, up through January 6th. If you visit pre-holiday, the shop is also one of my favorites for finding great gifts. Nearby, the Neue Galerie is perfect for fans of German and Austrian art, and a coffee-and-cake break at on-site Café Sabarsky, while the Guggenheim and Cooper Hewitt (maybe my favorite in the city) offer two very different but equally compelling takes on art and design. If you’re visiting in winter, don’t skip ice skating at Central Park’s Wollman Rink for peak NYC magic. And when you need a break from museums, Madison Avenue is made for shopping (or window shopping) thanks to a parade of designer boutiques. Around the holidays, it’s especially pretty, with standout festive windows at spots like the Ralph Lauren flagship, which leans into full old-New-York Christmas movie feel.
Start with a box of black-and-white cookies from William Greenberg—they’re my pick for the city’s best (what’s yours??), and they make great gifts. JG Melon is the move for a no-frills, classic burger and beer. For coffee and cake (or schnitzel and a spritz), head to the Viennese-inspired Café Sabarsky. Old-school French vibes live on at Le Veau d’Or, while Elio’s is the neighborhood’s beloved, white tablecloth Italian spot. At The Surrey, Casa Tua is perfect for a latte and chocolate croissant or a lingering, low-lit dinner, and Bemelmans Bar at The Carlyle remains the gold standard for martinis and live piano under those iconic Ludwig Bemelmans murals.