13 Reasons to Visit Bergen, Norway
Epic views, mountain goats, reindeer hot dogs, and brown cheese ice cream await.
After three Augusts of sweating through Italy and France, last year my family and I took a coolcation. (If you’re wondering, it’s possible to both cringe at the term and embrace the meaning.) We spent two excellent weeks in Copenhagen, where temps hovered around 70 degrees daily, then set off for a cruise up the Norwegian coast, ending at “the top of the world” in Svalbard. But first, we spent three nights in Bergen.
Norway’s second-largest city sits on the country’s west coast, between seven mountains and the fjords. Today the city is best known for its colorful harbor district (the historic Bryggen waterfront is a UNESCO World Heritage site), its fish market, a lively music and arts scene, and easy access to exploring scenic fjords. I didn’t know much about Bergen before our visit, and it was such a delight to spend a stretch wandering around the city, swimming and sauna-ing, and riding the funicular to take in a majestic mountain view (and meet some resident goats.) Read on for how to spend a few days in Bergen, Norway.
Hotel Norge Scandic was a breath of fresh air for our family of five. Traveling with three kids usually means compromising by either booking an Airbnb (not my favorite) or some creative problem solving with hotel room arrangements (anything from someone sleeping on a pull out bed to separating the fam in two different rooms on two different floors—this has happened more than once!) But at Norge Scandic, our two connecting rooms—with three single beds in the girls’ room—gave everyone space to spread out. The hospitality matched: staff left little treats on the girls’ pillows when we arrived—tiny decks of cards and local candy. Our room had beautiful views of the city, and the hotel’s central location made exploring on foot super easy. The spa has an indoor pool, and for a small fee we could book a swim session, so we spent mornings going between the pool, on-site saunas, and a cold-plunge shower. Of all the things I loved about this hotel, though, my favorite was the breakfast buffet. It included—among platters of cinnamon buns and fresh bread and jams and eggs—a huge spread of local cheeses, including one that was named best in the world. I wish there were Scandics in every city!
Ride the Fløibanen funicular to the top of Mount Fløyen for spectacular views of the city and water below. The summit area has hiking paths, playgrounds, a snack bar, a restaurant, and a gift shop where we bought postcards. We walked green trails, took photos with the resident goats, and ate soft-serve ice cream in the rain. Wander through the narrow passageways of Bryggen, the old Hanseatic wharf. The historic wooden buildings now house charming shops selling everything from vintage knick-knacks to locally made gifts.
Visit the Edvard Grieg Museum at Troldhaugen, the composer’s summer home. We bought tickets to an afternoon piano performance—about 30 minutes inside a small, beautiful concert hall that hosts concerts throughout the summer. Our performer was a young pianist who closed with a jaunty rendition of “In the Hall of the Mountain King.” Afterward, we grabbed cardamom buns and coffee at the café, then walked the grounds to find Grieg’s composing shack, a tiny cabin with windows overlooking the fjord. Take an outdoor dip at the Nordnes Seawater Pool. This place is so cool! It’s a giant swimming pool set right at the tip of the Nordnes peninsula, overlooking the City Fjord. It’s heated—people swim here throughout the year, and you can check to see the current temp and how many people are in it right now (107, as of writing this!) There’s also a sauna on-site.
The Fish Market serves solid peel-and-eat shrimp and seafood chowder, and I was told by a local that it’s popular with Bergensers, too. Serving Middle Eastern and Turkish fare, Baban was a favorite for platters of grilled meats, homemade pita, and hummus. Burgeren had simple but really good burgers and crispy fries. Baker Brun sells heavenly skillingsbolle, a local cinnamon bun worth seeking out. 3-Kroneren is a centrally-located stand for classic Norwegian hot dogs—get the reindeer sausage. And we visited Hallaisen all three nights of our stay for homemade gelato in flavors like Brown Cheese (IYKYK) and Belgian chocolate. Don’t miss the The Ugly Delicious Sundae, with nougat, Oreos, whipped cream, salted caramel pearls, and Smash, the single greatest Norwegian chocolate treat.
We loved Julehuset, a year-round Christmas shop near Bryggen where we bought adorable felted reindeer ornaments. But the real move—and I can’t stress this enough—is that you need to pack an extra bag, hit a grocery store (Rema 1000, Kiwi) and load up on as many bags of Smash! as you can carry. It’s a kind of chocolate-covered Bugle, and don’t take my word for it—read about it in the sub-Reddit “Norwegian snacks that are the shit” lol. (Seriously, though, they’re amazing!) While you’re at the grocery store, also stock up on pick-and-mix Swedish candy, which is practically free compared to the prices of the new Swedish candy shops in the U.S.