In exciting personal news, we booked our spring break trip—not at the very last minute as is custom for the Stephens family, but an entire two months out. (Please clap!)

We used points, first finding the best flight option on Point.me/amex, then following the instructions to transfer points from Amex to Flying Blue, the Air France and KLM loyalty program. Admittedly, I’m a Certified Points Dummy, but I subscribe to —a straightforward and savvy roadmap for traveling with points, and I paid special attention to this post about the one thing you need to do before booking with points. A shockingly short time later, we now have tickets for Mexico City.

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In equally exciting and serendipitous news, Rachel just published The Ultimate Guide to Mexico City on Saltete, with nearly 100 places to eat, drink, see, and shop. I read about her trips to Mexico’s capital city on The Point and just love her taste in art, architecture, bakeries, and boutiques. I bought the guide and already started saving all the spots I plan to visit.

“We travel the world looking for cities as dynamic as Mexico City, “ she told me. “It’s a metropolis of 20 million people, yet in the quiet, trendy neighborhoods, it can feel like a leafy street in Brooklyn. From the art and architecture to the culture and food, Mexico City belongs on your short list of the best cities in the world: New York, Paris, Rome—and CDMX.”

Below, Rachel shares four of her can’t-miss spots in Mexico City, and if you’ve been to CDMX and have one place you can’t stop talking about, please share in the comments!

Onora

In Polanco, they sell some of the most beautiful handmade artifacts from around Mexico. We got a wooden spoon rest we bought confiscated at airport security, so this will be our first stop next time we return ;)

Casa Barragán and Casa Gilardi

Casa Estudio Luis Barragán, the architect’s former home and studio in a quiet Miguel Hidalgo neighborhood, is a UNESCO-listed modernist masterpiece with serene rooms, bold color, and a sunlit garden. Reserve well in advance.

Casa Gilardi, one of Luis Barragán’s last works, is a private home famous for its bold color, light, and that dreamy indoor pool framed by bright walls. You visit on a guided tour.

Biblioteca Vasconcelos

“A library like you have never seen before. You will be tempted to skip it because it’s a little bit out of the way, but go anyway. The design is unbelievable. You will not regret it!”

After three Augusts of sweating through Italy and France, last year my family and I took a coolcation. (If you’re wondering, it’s possible to both cringe at the term and embrace the meaning.) We spent two excellent weeks in Copenhagen, where temps hovered around 70 degrees daily, then set off for a cruise up the Norwegian coast, ending at “the top of the world” in Svalbard. But first, we spent three nights in Bergen.

Norway’s second-largest city sits on the country’s west coast, between seven mountains and the fjords. Today the city is best known for its colorful harbor district (the historic Bryggen waterfront is a UNESCO World Heritage site), its fish market, a lively music and arts scene, and easy access to exploring scenic fjords. I didn’t know much about Bergen before our visit, and it was such a delight to spend a stretch wandering around the city, swimming and sauna-ing, and riding the funicular to take in a majestic mountain view (and meet some resident goats.) Read on for how to spend a few days in Bergen, Norway.

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Hotel Norge Scandic was a breath of fresh air for our family of five. Traveling with three kids usually means compromising by either booking an Airbnb (not my favorite) or some creative problem solving with hotel room arrangements (anything from someone sleeping on a pull out bed to separating the fam in two different rooms on two different floors—this has happened more than once!) But at Norge Scandic, our two connecting rooms—with three single beds in the girls’ room—gave everyone space to spread out. The hospitality matched: staff left little treats on the girls’ pillows when we arrived—tiny decks of cards and local candy. Our room had beautiful views of the city, and the hotel’s central location made exploring on foot super easy. The spa has an indoor pool, and for a small fee we could book a swim session, so we spent mornings going between the pool, on-site saunas, and a cold-plunge shower. Of all the things I loved about this hotel, though, my favorite was the breakfast buffet. It included—among platters of cinnamon buns and fresh bread and jams and eggs—a huge spread of local cheeses, including one that was named best in the world. I wish there were Scandics in every city!

Ride the Fløibanen funicular to the top of Mount Fløyen for spectacular views of the city and water below. The summit area has hiking paths, playgrounds, a snack bar, a restaurant, and a gift shop where we bought postcards. We walked green trails, took photos with the resident goats, and ate soft-serve ice cream in the rain. Wander through the narrow passageways of Bryggen, the old Hanseatic wharf. The historic wooden buildings now house charming shops selling everything from vintage knick-knacks to locally made gifts.

Visit the Edvard Grieg Museum at Troldhaugen, the composer’s summer home. We bought tickets to an afternoon piano performance—about 30 minutes inside a small, beautiful concert hall that hosts concerts throughout the summer. Our performer was a young pianist who closed with a jaunty rendition of “In the Hall of the Mountain King.” Afterward, we grabbed cardamom buns and coffee at the café, then walked the grounds to find Grieg’s composing shack, a tiny cabin with windows overlooking the fjord. Take an outdoor dip at the Nordnes Seawater Pool. This place is so cool! It’s a giant swimming pool set right at the tip of the Nordnes peninsula, overlooking the City Fjord. It’s heated—people swim here throughout the year, and you can check to see the current temp and how many people are in it right now (107, as of writing this!) There’s also a sauna on-site.

The Fish Market serves solid peel-and-eat shrimp and seafood chowder, and I was told by a local that it’s popular with Bergensers, too. Serving Middle Eastern and Turkish fare, Baban was a favorite for platters of grilled meats, homemade pita, and hummus. Burgeren had simple but really good burgers and crispy fries. Baker Brun sells heavenly skillingsbolle, a local cinnamon bun worth seeking out. 3-Kroneren is a centrally-located stand for classic Norwegian hot dogs—get the reindeer sausage. And we visited Hallaisen all three nights of our stay for homemade gelato in flavors like Brown Cheese (IYKYK) and Belgian chocolate. Don’t miss the The Ugly Delicious Sundae, with nougat, Oreos, whipped cream, salted caramel pearls, and Smash, the single greatest Norwegian chocolate treat.

We loved Julehuset, a year-round Christmas shop near Bryggen where we bought adorable felted reindeer ornaments. But the real move—and I can’t stress this enough—is that you need to pack an extra bag, hit a grocery store (Rema 1000, Kiwi) and load up on as many bags of Smash! as you can carry. It’s a kind of chocolate-covered Bugle, and don’t take my word for it—read about it in the sub-Reddit “Norwegian snacks that are the shit” lol. (Seriously, though, they’re amazing!) While you’re at the grocery store, also stock up on pick-and-mix Swedish candy, which is practically free compared to the prices of the new Swedish candy shops in the U.S.

Today I’m sharing part two of the Holiday Gift Guide, but fun news to share first: I was interviewed for a piece in the New York Times about how to choose a restaurant when you’re traveling. Writer Nikita Richardson rounds up the best advice for finding great places to eat, including why you should book a food tour early on in the trip, and how to seek out picks from the local experts before you go. Gift link to read the story here, and read on for a handful of last-minute gifts to give the traveler in your life.

A Swiss Army Knife turtleneck

This Uniqlo Heattech cashmere blend turtleneck ($29.90) is one of those magical basics that take up virtually zero space in your bag but can be worn with virtually anything. (See: Jo Piazza pairing one with this glittery Anthopologie skirt, on sale for $90.) Another turtleneck option that’s made from merino wool (i.e., a super warm, thin layer that’s also moisture-wicking and, ahem, odor-resistant) is this Uniqlo Merino ribbed turtleneck (49.90).

The world’s best bath salt

Listen, if you’ve read this newsletter for any length of time you know I can’t stop yapping about how much I love this Kneipp Arnica Bath Salt (normally around $22) for a post-flight soak. They also make these Effervescent Bath Pebbles ($2.40) in a range of scents (lavender, arnica, and eucalyptus, which is great for when you’re feeling a cold coming on) and they’re easy to stash in your dopp kit and pray your hotel has a bathtub.

A Saltete Travel Guide

Did someone you love book a flight to Paris, Venice, Rome, Florence, London, or Genoa? Are they planning a trip to Disney World or the Catskills or Little Italy in the Bronx or Brooklyn? Give them the gift of a FOMO-free trip with all the best recommendations from a true local expert. (Tiny Table Tours founder Maddy Sweitzer Lamme breaks down why Saltete guides help you have a better trip, here.)

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Post-flight skin hydration

Post, or, depending on your comfort level with public beauty masks, in-flight. Summer Fridays set ($34) with a hydrating mist, a mask, serum, and under eye patches. This adorable Patchology On The Fly travel facial kit ($22) also makes a great gift.

The goat travel pillow

Since the last time I wrote about this Trtl Travel Pillow (on sale for $45) I’ve used it on a 16 hour flight in which did not have a lie-flat seat and I firmly believe it single-handedly helped me sleep for 6 straight hours, a personal best on any flight, even in BC.

A forever toiletry bag

This Kusshi Vacation Bag ($89) is roomy and super cute. I’ve had mine for years, and love all its little pockets, and the fact that the I can unzip the liner and throw it in the wash to clean out the foundation I accidentally dripped inside.

Great stocking stuffers they’ll actually use

Compression Socks, Comrad and Bombas make my favorite pairs. Mack’s earplugs are my go-to ever since I was kept awake by college kids partying in the hallway at a Days Inn in Kentucky. Never again.

When I first moved to New York, I lived for a short stretch on the Upper East Side. And while the neighborhood definitely had its charms (Central Park, all-night diners, dogs tucked into purses that for sure cost more than my rent), it could feel a little sleepy for a 20-something, 20-something years ago.

In recent years, though, the UES has had a bit of a transformation. The Frick Collection just reopened after a five-year, $220 million renovation, with refreshed galleries and new public spaces. Just up the street, The Surrey has also been reborn, bringing a glossy new stay to the neighborhood. Add in a steady trickle of new openings—from cafés to boutiques along Madison and Lexington—and it feels like the area has some new mojo without losing its old-New-York bones, brownstone blocks, corner bars, and yes, those purse dogs.

I recently returned to the UES for a few nights, and I highly recommend a visit, especially this time of year. Make it your home base for a weekend of holiday-mode New York: go ice skating in Central Park, see the tree and Neapolitan Baroque crèche at The Met, wander Madison Avenue’s twinkly windows, and end the night with a martini and live piano at Bemelmans Bar.

On a leafy Upper East Side corner, the polished, residential-esque Surrey, A Corinthia Hotel, makes an ideal NYC weekend home base. You’re half a block from Central Park and Madison Avenue’s boutiques, with Casa Tua downstairs for a glam Italian dinner. The new Bridge Suites, designed by Martin Brudnizki were inspired by Central Park’s iconic bridges and feel like chic city apartments, with spacious living rooms, deep soaking tubs, and leafy views.

The big neighborhood (and national) news is that the Frick Collection reopened in April 2025. On the heels of a gorgeous renovation that refreshed the Gilded Age mansion, including its galleries and 70th Street garden, the museum is more exquisite than ever—and now includes Westmoreland. The museum’s first-ever restaurant is a jewel-box café on the second floor with pastel tones and a dreamy landscape mural inspired by Henry Clay Frick’s private Pullman car. (Put your name on the wait list for lunch as soon as you arrive.) A visit to the the Metropolitan Museum of Art is always a good idea, but I especially love the museum around the holidays when you can see the Christmas Tree and Neapolitan Baroque Crèche, up through January 6th. If you visit pre-holiday, the shop is also one of my favorites for finding great gifts. Nearby, the Neue Galerie is perfect for fans of German and Austrian art, and a coffee-and-cake break at on-site Café Sabarsky, while the Guggenheim and Cooper Hewitt (maybe my favorite in the city) offer two very different but equally compelling takes on art and design. If you’re visiting in winter, don’t skip ice skating at Central Park’s Wollman Rink for peak NYC magic. And when you need a break from museums, Madison Avenue is made for shopping (or window shopping) thanks to a parade of designer boutiques. Around the holidays, it’s especially pretty, with standout festive windows at spots like the Ralph Lauren flagship, which leans into full old-New-York Christmas movie feel.

Start with a box of black-and-white cookies from William Greenberg—they’re my pick for the city’s best (what’s yours??), and they make great gifts. JG Melon is the move for a no-frills, classic burger and beer. For coffee and cake (or schnitzel and a spritz), head to the Viennese-inspired Café Sabarsky. Old-school French vibes live on at Le Veau d’Or, while Elio’s is the neighborhood’s beloved, white tablecloth Italian spot. At The Surrey, Casa Tua is perfect for a latte and chocolate croissant or a lingering, low-lit dinner, and Bemelmans Bar at The Carlyle remains the gold standard for martinis and live piano under those iconic Ludwig Bemelmans murals.

The smell of their favorite hotel

My husband and I stayed at the new Pendry Natirar in New Jersey over the summer and we both couldn’t get enough of the scent of the custom bath products. I’m going to buy him a bottle to remind him of all the fun we had that weekend (the property has beautiful bike trails and a Gatsby-esque swimming pool), but plenty of hotels have their own custom scents. Pick one of your favorite stays to keep the good memories top of mind all year: MiN New York from the Pendry Natirar ($45); 1 Hotels Signature Kindling Candle ($38); The Plaza New York Boxed Soap Set ($12); an EDITION hotels reed diffuser ($68, on sale from $85) in the group’s Sicilian bergamot and fresh cedarwood scent. And omg the Westin’s famous white tea scent, I still remember walking into the Westin Beaver Creek more than a decade ago and wanting to drink the smell of the lobby. It now comes in body lotion form for $16, on sale from $20.

Vintage ashtrays

These are so fun to shop for and give. Scour Ebay or Etsy for either a specific hotel or a destination, like Paris (George V, and a second George V!), Athens, The Bahamas, Reno, Atlantic City (The Playboy Hotel & Casino!), Venice, and a favorite: the Sydney Opera Hotel in Paris and this vintage terracotta from Hotel La Mamounia Marrakech! (I use the ones I pick up at flea markets and vintage shops when I travel for jewelry, matchbooks, etc etc etc.)

A packable bag

After forgetting to pack a day bag on my recent trip to Toronto (to write this story about eating dinner in a Canadian family’s home!) I came home and researched the best day bags so I’d never be without one again. (See the full list here.) A top pick is the Luka Expandable Laptop Tote from Calpak ($69) and I also love the Baggu Cloud Bag ($56) that folds down to a pouch and expands with room for all the essentials. This slouchy suede shoulder bag from Quince ($150) is a little more polished (but doesn’t zip.)

Pajamas

My favorite Eberjey pajamas (regularly $150, on sale for $112.50) are also the best travel pajamas—they don’t take up much space in your luggage and since they’re so soft, they’re comforting after a long day of travel or sightseeing. I also love these dupes from Quince ($59.90).

A hotel robe

Speaking of comfortable, a fluffy hotel bathrobe from a favorite stay or a place they dream of going someday—like this Ritz Paris robe ($240), in the hotel’s signature soft peach color. (Founder César Ritz chose the color specifically to be flattering for guests’ complexions.)

Wet bag

For bringing home still-damp swimsuits from your tropical getaway, like this one from Helly Hansen ($30, on sale from $40), or this nylon and polyester laundry bag from Cotopaxi ($17) would also work well.

Compression bags

Eagle Creek makes my favorite version, I’ve had my set for 15 years and I once narrowly made a flight from Rome only because I didn’t have luggage to check thanks to these bags.

The perfect day bag has to be big enough for those essentials, and also small enough to squish into my beloved Briggs & Riley Weekender Duffle that is 100% probably not supposed to be used as a “personal item” but I do it anyway. (Side note: I’m not taking up extra overhead space—since it’s unstructured, the magical Mary Poppins-esque bag holds a ton of stuff and remarkably always compresses to fit under the seat.)

Anyway, when I got home from my trip, I immediately started researching to find a great new packable day bag. Below are my top contenders, and if you have a recommendation for one you love, please share in the comments!

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The Luka Expandable Laptop Tote from Calpak ($69), which comes in dozens of colors and is designed with interior and exterior pockets to keep your stuff organized, plus it expands.

Cotopaxi is one of my favorite brands, and I love this Todo 22 L Convertible Tote Del Dia ($75), which can be used as a tote or backpack. The Patagonia Terravia Tote Pack 24L ($99), is also both a backpack and a tote and folds down into its own tiny bag. (R)evolution 25L Convertible Carryall ($80), is made from 100% recycled materials and can be used as either a tote or backpack, too.

A water repellant tote from Quince ($79.90), made from recycled polyester that can expand for carting home souvenirs, and a Quince quilted backpack ($79.90), if backpacks are more your speed.

The Calia Women’s Luxe Travel Tote ($98, but navy is on sale for $43.97), a squishy bag with a big main compartment, two zippered compartments, and a crossbody strap. (This Bagsmart quilted kind-of dupe is $27.99.)

This slouchy suede shoulder bag ($150), also from Quince, for something a little sleeker. (Note this bag doesn’t have an external zipper. But then again neither did my Baggu?)

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*I bring at least one Baggu bag every time I travel. They’re so useful for trips to the local market, to pack damp swimsuits, to bring home souvenirs, or, it turns out, to use it as an imperfect day bag when I forgot one.

**Some of the links are affiliate, so if you make a purchase through them, I may earn a small commission. Thank you for reading and supporting The Carry On!

But for every Philly restaurant that earns a star, a Bib Gourmand, or a spot in the guide, there are dozens and dozens more that make this city such a joy to eat in—mom-and-pop Italian restaurants, neighborhood wine bars, award-winning taco shops, and exquisite tasting-menus.

Whether you’re in town for the Michelin ceremony or just looking for something great to eat and drink right now, here are ten (mostly new-ish) places that show off the range of what Philly does best. (For more, check out my Saltete guide with 100 places for Where to Eat + Drink in Philadelphia, which I update often!)

Dancerobot

From the team behind Royal Sushi & Izakaya, Dancerobot brings playful Japanese comfort food and konbini-inspired late-night snacks to a buzzing Rittenhouse dining room. I love the katsu curry, thinly-cut wagyu roast beef, and cabbage bao. The bar serves excellent sake and nostalgic cocktails, and dessert is Hokkaido milk soft serve with a choice of toppings. (Lemon-filled taiyaki is the obvious choice.)

Meetinghouse

Meetinghouse is the place everyone wishes existed in their own neighborhood. It’s got a short and perfect menu of updated classics like the ideal roast beef sandwich and a statuesque green salad with herbs and dijon vinaigrette I dream about. Kids in tow? They might like the shrimp cocktail, breaded turkey cutlets and a big plate of fries. Desserts are thoughtful and theatrical (a coupe of ice cream doused with Crème de menthe at the table.) They have a trio of house beers brewed by local Tonewood Brewing, and wines by the glass, and in nice weather you should sit outside on the enclosed side patio.

Sao

From James Beard Award–winning chef Phila Lorn and wife/partner Rachel Lorn—the same couple behind Mawn, is a Southeast Asian oyster and crudo bar on East Passyunk. Cambodian-leaning seafood—like scallop crudo, oysters, and rich crab gravy are all on offer, alongside inventive cocktails. Order a Jabroni Negroni and omg a Hoe Cake—corn and dashi batter cake soaked in honey butter and topped with a baseball of smoked trout salad and (if you’re fancy and/or smart) trout roe. Reservations get snatched up quickly, but a few bar and counter seats stay open for walk-ins.

Amá

Amá brings modern Mexican cooking to the Fishtown–Kensington border, with Mexico City–born chef Frankie Ramirez turning out wood-fired dishes that spotlight heirloom corn, bright salsas, and seasonal vegetables. The airy, industrial dining room and long, lively bar make it a destination for agave-based cocktails and plates like tlayudas and grilled octopus. Order the salsa and chips to start—unlike any you’ve had before.

Honeysuckle Restaurant

The menu at Omar Tate and Cybille St. Aude-Tate’s North Broad restaurant honors Black foodways with a soulful and absolutely delicious pre-fixe dinner. Inside the warm and polished dining room — arranged with a mix of tables and low slung sofa seating surrounded by wood-paneled walls — choose your own adventure with dishes like oysters, Haitian spaghetti with XO sauce, fritters topped with a delicate little scoop of scallop ceviche. The couple also employs a fermentation director who will bring out samples of whatever mind blowing thing he’s working on, like sake made with Carolina Gold rice.

La Jefa

La Jefa is an all-day Mexican café, restaurant, and agave bar just off Rittenhouse Square, from the team behind the beloved Tequilas. By day, it’s a sunny spot for coffee, conchas, and Mexican-inspired breakfast and brunch. At night, Jefa Milpa in the back shifts into a moodier room for inventive agave cocktails and shareable plates that are a perfect blend Guadalajara and Philly.

Friday Saturday Sunday

Named “Most Outstanding Restaurant” (in the country!) by the Beard Foundation in 2023, Chad and Hanna Williams’ Rittenhouse mainstay is a beloved Philly restaurant. Book a table upstairs for the tasting menu of thoughtful and perfectly-executed dishes (it changes, but I loved the quail with coco bread) or show up a little before 5pm for a seat at the downstairs Lovers Bar, where you can order octopus and beans (in the pantheon of Philly’s best dishes) and one of the most mind-bendingly good cocktails of your life. Barman Paul MacDonald created a carousel you can spin for a drink made using the mathematical Fibonacci Sequence. As it turns out, I love math?

Supérette

Chloé Grigri’s French-leaning neighborhood market, bottle shop, and wine bar on East Passyunk. Browse shelves of tinned fish, charcuterie, and “Frenchie” snacks, then settle in for thoughtfully-sourced wines, raclette sandwiches, and other sip-and-snack plates in the cozy corner space that blurs the line between wine bar, café, épicerie, and all-day hangout.

Second Daughter Bakery

Oh how I love this small, sister-run bakery inside the Bok building, which sells the world’s best brownie, sprinkled with thick flakes of sea salt, as well as a host of other treats. (The chocolate chip cookies and fruit-filled hand pies are otherworldly, too!) Order ahead for pick up, or find them at the weekly Rittenhouse Farmers Market on (what luck!) Tuesdays.

Sahbyy Foods

There are plenty of places to get a great cheesesteak in Philly, obviously. (See: Angelo’s, Jim’s, Cosmi’s, Taste Cheesesteak Bar for its Epis-marinated oxtail version.) Another stand-out is from Sahbyy Foods. The Cambodian street-food stall built a cult following at the Southeast Asian Market in FDR Park with its lemongrass cheesesteak—tender beef or chicken, bright papaya salad, cheddar sauce, and pepper chips on a toasted roll. Sadly, SEA Market is closed for the season, but happily, Sahbyy has expanded to a stall at University City’s new Gather Food Hall.

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Dine on the water

Reffen, said every friend who gave me tips for Copenhagen, is a must. No lies! We loved it so much we went three times. The sprawling street food market on Refshaleøen — a former industrial island with shipyards — is home to dozens of international food stalls, bars, and a skate park, all with beautiful views of the waterfront. A non-exhaustive list of our favorite stalls: Momos at Nepalese spot Everest, Afghan dishes at Awasana, Gosht, making Kurdish street food (we love both the lamb and the chicken shish), and Holy Krapow for Thai. My kids loved the amatriciana at PastaLab (tip: order the kid’s portion, which is half the price for the same sized bowl.)

Also on Refshaleøen find Lille bakery, Hart bakery, an outpost of our favorite ice cream spot, Ismagereit (I’m obsessed with the peanut-caramel-chocolate but whatever you order ask for a topping of homemade guf, ie, meringue-esque marshmallow, or SOFT ICE, which is what I will call soft serve from this moment forth), Mikkeller, and Noma (heard of it?). And CopenHill and CopenHot — see below.

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We just spent a couple of weeks in Denmark’s coastal capital city — working remotely and squeezing in as much fun and as many cardamom buns as a person can handle — and discovered firsthand that it indeed lives up to the hype.

We’re working on a Copenhagen Saltete guide with all of our favorite spots to eat, drink and play, but in the meantime I’m sharing some of the best things to do with kids (or without kids! I would do any of these alone, including the harbor trampolines.) There are too many for one newsletter, so look out for Part 2 to come.

For now, read on to find the best buns, where to jump into the canal, and how to make the most of a day at one of the world’s oldest amusement parks.

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A very abbreviated list of reasons the Azores makes a perfect family vacation destination:

• From the East Coast, it’s a quicker trip than to LA. A direct flight from JFK can be less than 5 hours, and a direct flight from Boston is even shorter.

• It’s known as the Hawaii of Europe for its lush landscapes, waterfalls, and pineapple farms.

• You take a dip in geothermal pools and hot springs.

• You can feast on fresh seafood in tiny fishing villages and scenic restaurants all over the island.

• It’s heavy on the European vibes, but the time difference is only four hours. (And if you’re going in the sliver of time in March between the start of our daylight savings time and theirs, it’s only 3 hours.)

Read on for the best things to do in the Azores — with kids or without!

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I mentioned a few weeks ago that instead of sending our three girls to day camps, my family spent a little less than a month in the South of France last summer—in a 16th-century farmhouse on the same property as a beautiful bed and breakfast called Le Château de Saint-Girons, just outside of Aix-en-Provence.

The location was prime for day trips and short jaunts to charming towns, epic markets, and some of the world’s most beautiful beaches. While researching the region in search of family-friendly options, I came across a blog aptly named Provence with Kids, which I also recommend an unending source of helpful tips.

Below, I’m sharing our stand-out things to eat, see, and do in Provence with the family.

Read on for:

• The best beaches for day trips (including one kinda splurgy beach club)

• Where to find a happy hour in a lavender field

• Tips on visiting the public pools

• How to visit Calanques National Park by boat

• The striking Frank Gehry-designed building where you can zip down a three-story indoor slide (even/especially the adults)

• The world’s most aesthetic place to eat homemade ice cream and drink spritzes

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Despite this newsletter’s name, I’m not a Carry On Evangelist. I see you, I understand why you feel this way, and — after a near-miss flight in the chaotic Rome airport, saved only by the grace of not checking a bag — I mostly stick to a carry-on. (And try to make my kids, too, their clothing is tiny.) But it’s of course not possible for every trip. I have, however, packed a carry on for a 10-day vacation all over Italy in the winter and a weeklong reporting trip to Norway (also in winter, filled with outdoor activities like dog sledding and snowmobiling that required a snow suit and a bajillion layers.)

I find carrying on is usually possible with a few secret weapons, including a set of compression bags, a mix-and-match uniform, and the Briggs & Riley expandable bag I bought in 2005 — similar to the Baseline Essential 22" Carry-On Spinner. (Although this new version has four spinner wheels for even easier sailing through the airport.) My bag has been through everything in 20 (20!) years of traveling, and it still looks perfect and works like a charm.

Whatever your luggage preferences are, though, it’s still helpful to learn the art of savvy packing. For some insider recommendations, I asked Richard Krulik, CEO of U.S. Luggage, the parent company of Briggs & Riley. With decades at the helm of the premium luggage company known for its lifetime guarantee, Krulik has mastered the art of efficient packing. Read on for his top tips for making the most of your suitcase space, whether you're Team Carry-On or Team Checked Luggage.

Follow this golden ratio

If you’re going to stick to a carry on, be strategic about your wardrobe, says Krulik. “A simple method to follow is the 3:1 method – three tops for every bottom.” (I also use this method, and try to stick to either a black or navy blue color scheme so I can cut down on extra pairs of shoes.)

Space saving tips

There are also a few ways to save space in your luggage, says Krulik, including packing socks and other small items within shoes, and rolling clothes instead of folding. “Rolling your clothes is one of the easiest ways to save space and help you pack more,” he says. On the other hand, he adds, “folding prevents wrinkles and makes moving items around in your suitcase easier.”

Use compression cubes

“Compression packing cubes are a must-have for carry-on only travelers,” he says. “These not only keep your items organized, but the compression helps you fit even more items.” (I enthusiastically second this. Before Briggs & Riley introduced their sturdy three-piece cube set — made from recycled bottles! — I had a set of plastic compression bags that I could roll to force out every last drop of air. They were great for squeezing more space, but less great for keeping things organized. The B&R version does both.)

Tips for packing souvenirs

Krulik suggests two different models that can both do one wildly useful trick. “Briggs & Riley’s Baseline and Sympatico carry-ons feature our patented one-touch compression-expansion technology,” he notes. Expand the bag for packing and compress back down to its original size, so travelers can “fit more items without sacrificing the carry-on size.” He recommends packing the bag without the expansion, so you can check the bag on the way home — with plenty of room saved for souvenirs.

Speaking of souvenirs, Krulik says fragile souvenirs should be wrapped in clothing or packed securely between softer items “to ensure they aren’t tossed around in the luggage while in transit,” he says. (And save that expander option for the return trip!) I’ve used pants and sweaters to wrap everything from bottles of olive oil and wine to serums from the Parisian pharmacy.

Consider a matching under seat duffel

It might also be worth considering a matching underseat bag or duffle, he says, designed to fit under the seat of the plane. “This takes away the guesswork from hoping that your backpack will be deemed ‘personal’ and can be a little easier to access smaller items like a phone or wallet.”

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What to bring, according to people who travel a lot.

Beauty + wellness

• A good lip mask for the plane

• Tower 28 acne spray, “a lifesaver on the plane, and they have a travel size,” according to my cousin, a sommelier who grew up in Italy and travels back often.

• My friend Becca’s job often takes her to places like Norway (and Antartica!), and she says Aquaphor is a must. There’s a portable lip version that’s great for chapped lips and skin, even in non-frozen locales.

• Kate McLeod mini body lotion bars. They’re super hydrating and don’t accidentally leak in your luggage.

• Under eye patches and face masks (If I had Chrissy Teigen money I’d buy these, I used them one time long before I spent all my money on children and they made my skin feel like a dewy tween.)

• A gua sha, says travel publicist Fran

• Sunscreen! Supergoop minis are my favorite

  

Tech

• The mother of all charging bricks, and/or this more compact version

• An Anker travel adapter for European plugs

• This power strip, plus the adapter and an extra cord to set up a charging station.

• Apple Airtags, for quelling all anxiety about if your bag made the connection

• Airalo eSim card. If your cell phone plan charges $10/day abroad, buy one of these instead. Prices range depending on the country you’re visiting/length of time/data, but start around $5 for 7 days. (I’ve been using eSim cards for years, comment or email me if you have questions.)

Water + coffee

• My friend Amelia always packs a collapsable tea kettle, “because not all hotel coffee machines are created equal.” (When I asked her if she also brings instant coffee, she said no, she also always brings an Aeropress lol)

• A ceramic water bottle (I got one of these in Australia and it’s the perfect size and weight.)

For sleeping

• The softest pajamas (that also don’t take up much space in your bag)

• An eye mask, because “you never know what the hotel lighting/curtain situation is gonna be like,” says social media editor Sam. (I like this one!)

• A light scarf, which can be a blanket on the plane and doubles as a shawl or a hair covering, says Jen, Edible Philly publisher and owner of the cutest boutique in Philly’s Italian Market: Salt & Vinegar.

• Turtl neck pillow, also for snoozing on the plane. (A travel editor told me she doesn’t fly without this so I bought one and it really does make sleeping in coach easier.)

Bags

• Kusshi makeup bags (and bottle protectors) because the genius snap-in organizers are washable

• A day pack like this or this is a must. I throw one in my carry on, they’re made of thin fabric and fold down easily — they work for outings in the city, beach, everywhere.

• I also pack a sling bag like this one or this one for easy access to my passport, phone, charger, etc.

• A baggu tote, “takes up nearly no space, is great for everything from shopping to a wet suit” according to travel writer and ice cream maker Jacqueline. (Agreed! I stuff one in my sling bag for shopping souvenirs or at farmers markets, etc.)

• A mesh laundry bag for keeping all our dirty laundry separate. (My friend Lee, the genius behind the Explain Boston to Me podcast and practically a professional family traveler, also always packs one.)

Etc.

• Empty Ziplocs, says my friend and travel writer Adam, “in case of pre-check in emergencies and to steal cookies from the lounge.” (lol)

• A compact umbrella

• Plastic shower caps, says Sonal, who hoards them from hotels and use them for everything when traveling.

• A tennis ball, says Dan, which can be used as a foam roll (for sore muscles), a dryer ball, and anything else you’re creative enough to think of

• Post-it’s, a removable activity for toddlers, according to Gillian (so smart!)

• Small notebooks like this or this, and a good pen for jotting down impressions and ideas on the go/journaling romantically in a cafe alone

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For the third summer in a row, we ditched expensive day camp for our three girls and instead spent a month working abroad. (If you’re new here, a little backstory.) This year we spent August in France — first three weeks in the South, just outside Aix en Provence, and then one week in Paris.

The original plan was to go to Mexico City, but a few weeks before we were due to leave, I worried about contributing to the water crisis there. I used the Google flight tool to look for airfare and was shocked to find the cheapest tickets were to France. It turns out, the summer Olympics kept travelers away. (AirFrance and Delta took a combined hit of hundreds of millions of dollars in revenue, and hotels and short term rentals were cutting nightly rates due to low occupancy.) We found good deals on flights and apartment rentals, and even scored €15-apiece tickets to see an Olympics event — the U.S. women’s soccer team play Australia in Marseille.

I’ll share our favorite kid-friendly things to do in the South in a few weeks, but here I’m highlighting the best of Paris. Read on for:

• The family-friendly Airbnb we stayed in near the Luxembourg Gardens

• Kid-friendly (or tolerated) restaurants

• Our daughters’ favorite museums and things to do

• My favorite Paris pastry crawl

• A Snack Cruise, Space Invaders, and more

Read more

The next Carry On, slated to run January 28th, will feature our guide to Iceland with tons of local recommendations and insights, as well as a packing list. (It’s a tough place to pack for in any season!) But for now, read on for why I love the concierge desk (and you should too), a handful of gems from a Dallas expert, and Gate Check, i.e. a little roundup of travel news.

Over the years, on far too many hotel visits, I assumed that since I didn’t need help scoring a hard-to-get restaurant reservation or last-minute matinee tickets I couldn’t possibly have any business at the concierge desk. Until earlier this year, that is, when I mentioned to a concierge that I love art, and he arranged a one-on-one tour with a curator at a nearby gallery.

I spent the most memorable hour of that trip learning about contemporary sculptures and Italian Renaissance paintings from the person who acquired them, and I left knowing I’d never breeze past the concierge desk again. Since then, I’ve gleaned insider recommendations from amazing local experts who know their locale better than anyone.

One of these is Mary Stamm of the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek. Last October, the Chief Concierge celebrated 41 years at the historic Dallas property. A member of the esteemed international org of concierges, Clefs d’Or, Stamm told D magazine that during her tenure she’s done everything from filling a suite with flowers for a guest to recommending the best place in the city for vintage cowboy boots.

Below, find five of her best recommendations for where to eat, drink, and shop in Dallas. And on your next trip, wherever it is, don’t forget to ask the concierge for all the insider tips.

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Blue Print

“A unique shopping space that is simply a breath of fresh air that I love recommending is Blue Print — a wonderful cannot-miss spot owned and created by five women interior designers. They've created a magical space featuring beautifully crafted furniture pieces, jewelry, tablescapes, and so much more. It's a uniquely wonderful place to shop when visiting Dallas and certainly a surprise for our guests.”

The Library at The Mansion Restaurant 

“Dating to 1925, the former library of the Sheppard King estate is a marvel.  For the most memorable dining experience in Dallas, the beautifully preserved room is highlighted by a stained-glass window bearing the coats of arms of the British barons who witnessed the signing of the 1215 Magna Carta at Runnymede. Mrs. King was a descendent of King Edward III of England. The intimate room and dinner are not to be overlooked when visiting The Mansion.” 

Layette 

“For our younger guests, I love recommending Layette, a children's dream come true. I used to shop at stores all over Dallas trying to discover wonderful and unique gifts and clothes for my nieces.  Layette always delivers and has the most perfectly assembled items for babies and young children.”

Grange Hall

“A cannot-miss spot for lunch is the absolutely exquisite and very special Grange Hall. With only 26 seats, it's the perfect spot to enjoy a memorable lunch with dear friends or family. In addition to a memorable lunch, I always suggest that our guests carve out time to also explore their retail section. Their retail space is intelligently curated with wonderful items from all over the world. A perfect afternoon in Dallas of lunch and retail therapy, simply a must when visiting Dallas.”   

Live Entertainment and a Mansion Margarita at the Mansion Bar 

“Live Entertainment at the Mansion Bar is always a treat for our hotel guests and locals alike. The intimate atmosphere of the Mansion Bar, housed in the original dining room and kitchen of the historic 1920s estate, is a true Dallas treasure.  And to make it even more special, I always make sure our guests never miss out on our Mansion Margarita and house-made truffle fries. A perfect Dallas evening that always delights.” 

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A person on an international flight was allegedly bullied by fellow passengers for refusing to change seats (comfort plus for basic economy, no less!) so a pair of friends could sit together.

Passengers on several different Turkish Airlines flights reported bed bug sightings (+ bites!) The airline’s response wasn’t ideal.

This excellent New York magazine piece about passengers on a Norwegian cruise ship reads like an anxiety dream come to life.

Thanks for reading The Carry On! I’m sending everyone good wishes for a Happy New Year, and lots of (extraordinary/adventurous/restorative/life-affirming) travel in 2025.

I don’t put a lot of stock in New Year’s resolutions, probably because decades into making them, I don’t have a stellar track record for keeping them. In recent years, though, I’ve shifted to New Year’s intentions — goals I’m setting, dreams I’m putting into the universe for the coming year.

Last December, my intentions included exploring two places I’d never been, one in the U.S. and one international. At home, that was Milwaukee and Madison Wisconsin and New Orleans (a place no one could believe I hadn’t been, myself included.) Abroad, I traveled to Indonesia, Croatia, Montenegro, and Australia.

I’m still pondering next year’s travel dreams, whether it’s a specific place, an experience, or a person I want to travel with or visit. In the meantime, I’m reading up on the destinations and trends experts are predicting will dominate travel in 2025. Read on for a few, from set-jetting to sleep tourism, and share in the comments where you want to go this year. I’m hoping that you get there!

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1. Buzzy Destinations

Thanks in part to the White Lotus effect (see below), Thailand is bracing for an influx of tourism in 2025. Other top global destinations, according to the 2025 Virtuoso Luxe Report, include Italy, Greece, France, Japan, and Croatia. The report, which is informed by Virtuoso’s network of luxury travel advisors, also points to Portugal, Antarctica, Iceland, Norway, and Morocco as destinations on the rise. Cold weather locales are also hot right now (sorry) as travelers seek to avoid both increasingly sweltering temps and bigger crowds. And based on nothing except vibes and insights from travel industry friends, I’ll add to that list Albania and Slovenia.

2. Culinary Travel

The 2025 Hilton Trends Report reveals that food remains a strong travel motivator. (It’s always been mine!) According to the report, “After accommodations, dining experiences are the next highest travel budget priority in 2025.” Also: 50% of global travelers book restaurant reservations before their flight, and 60% of luxury travelers prioritize booking hotels with great restaurants.

How to go: Check out my month-by-month culinary adventure guide in the Points Guy. I’m eyeing up a Tomato Festival in the Loire Valley or an Oyster Festival in Scotland. Or book a tour with Cheese Journeys for the ultimate cheese lovers’ immersion in Italy, France, Switzerland, or England.

3. Slow Travel

With the ongoing ability to work remotely (introducing us, whether we like it or not, to terms like workcations and bleisure travel), travelers are favoring longer stays that allow them “to immerse themselves in local cultures, support small businesses, and explore authentic, lesser-known destinations rather than overcrowded hotspots,” says Joshua Schaeffer, general manager at The Joule in Dallas, Texas.

“We foresee continued interest in slow travel and multi-sensory, immersive experiences,” adds Marcel Kloet, general manager at Dorado Beach, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve. The luxury resort in Puerto Rico offers things like cooking classes featuring local ingredients and guided ecological tours that allow for deeper connection with the natural surroundings, which “foster not only memorable stays but also a sense of purpose and personal enrichment,” he says.

The 2025 Hilton Trends Report also calls out Slow Travel, noting that 74% of travelers want recommendations from locals when traveling, and 65% of parents “often prioritize learning about their culture or family background through their travels with their kids.”

How to go: get your advice from locals: Erica Firpo’s guide to Venice or Rome, Lindsey Tramuta’s guide to Paris, Katie Parla’s guide to Rome, Sian Parry’s guide to London, Britt Moore’s guide to Lisbon, + Linda Sarris’s guide to Pantelleria.

4. Wellness and Sleep Tourism

As technology has all but ensured we’re never really out of office, travelers seeking wellness (and specifically, better sleep) are on the rise. Hilton’s report notes that 70% of luxury travelers choose hotels with sleep-centric amenities, which can include anything from pillow menus and slumber kits with eye masks and herbal teas to personalized sleep coaches. Kloet, the GM at Dorado Beach, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, adds that the concept of ‘longevity travel’ resonates with guests “as they increasingly seek healthy, creative dining options and immersive activities promoting overall well-being.”

How to go: Book a trip to Sweden, a sleep tourism champion with cool, clean air, long winter nights, and plentiful nature.

5. Set-Jetting and You Tell Me Travel

This year I learned that in some cases, the teens are driving family travel destination decisions based on what they’re seeing on TikTok. (My 80s-kid brain can hardly fathom it.) The Virtuoso Luxe Report says the platform “remains a powerful influence, delivering rapid-fire clips of destinations previously overlooked,” and adds that inspiration is also coming in the form of books, documentaries, and films.

The latter has been coined “Set-Jetting” or planning travel based on popular filming destinations of a show or movie. Since the second season of The White Lotus was filmed in Sicily, the Southern Italian island has had a surge of visitors, and the same goes for Dubrovnik, Croatia after Game of Thrones and (I’m so sorry to report), certain locales in Paris that were filming destinations from Emily in Paris.

How to go: Book a room at the Hôtel Plaza Athénée, where the Haute Couture suite makes an appearance in season one, or just stop in for a drink at the hotel’s Le Bar, which is also a backdrop in the same episode.

The exhibition is magical. We made our way through a glass labyrinth by Roy Lichtenstein that’s set to a tune composed by Philip Glass, explored an “enchanted tree” by David Hockney, and watched performers from the Puerto Rican art studio Poncilí Creación engaging with the crowd throughout the exhibition. (The girls were partial to the massive blue elephant that was propelled by at least four humans, that I could tell.)

If you go, exit through the gift shop to check out great merch like kaleidoscopes ($10), and original archival t-shirts from the 1987 fair (starting at $200), found in the warehouse and restored. And afterwards, visit the Butterfly Bar on the second floor for a bird’s eye view of the exhibition and a snack. They have cute carnival treats like rainbow lollipops and giant soft pretzels, and lime cotton candy sprinkled with Tajin. (Please get it.)

Afterwards, we walked on the High Line and ate gnocco fritto and rigatoni alla gricia at Ci Siamo, also in Hudson Yards. The restaurant’s located on the second floor, and my friend Nick told me to take the elevator up because they have complementary, serve-yourself wine. So charming!

For dessert, we walked to Mercato Little Spain, the subterranean market by Jose Andres with stalls selling everything from conservas to jamon to made-to-order churros. Before driving back to Philly, we queued up for soft serve in flavors like arroz con leche sprinkled with caramelized Rice Krispies and mango with passion fruit jelly and a shaving of lime zest, and then shopped for what must be the best ham merch in America. (See photo for reference.)

Luna Luna closes on January 5th, but it’s worth it to try to squeeze in a visit before it does!

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A bag for souvenirs

I always pack a roll-up zipper bag to fill with presents and souvenirs to bring home. My two favorites are the Samsonite Tote a Ton duffel ($33), which was recommended by a travel editor who told me it’s so huge, you could fit a body inside (she used it to cart back her drug store beauty haul from Japan), and the nylon Gwyneth Bag from Scandinavian brand Day Birger et Mikkelsen ($52). I bring the Samsonite on longer trips so I can check my dirty laundry on the way home, and I bring the Day bag on every trip — it takes up little room in my carry on, it’s durable, and it can fit a surprising amount of Duty Free chocolate.

A vintage hotel ashtray

I have a little collection of vintage hotel ashtrays I use for jewelry, and they’re easy to find on Etsy and Ebay. Search for one from a specific hotel, restaurant, or a city or destination they love, like the Inter-Continental Athens, the Ritz Paris, the Plaza in NYC, Bar Harbor, Maine, this toilet-shaped one from Florida, or the 1960s-era Disneyland Hotel, aka the “World’s Most Exciting Hotel.”

Games

We always throw in a few card games we can play with our daughters at restaurants or during an afternoon sightseeing/spritz break and the go-tos are Monopoly Deal ($5), UNO ($5), and (don’t judge) Cards Against Humanity family edition ($17). All are equally fun to play sans kids — one friend told me she and her 20-somethings siblings bring Monopoly Deal to every weekend get-together.

Packing cubes

These are in every gift guide, yes, but for good reason. If they already use packing cubes, upgrade them to the Eagle Creek set ($45) or the Quince Eco Compression Packing Cubes, ($50). I love the Quince set — they’re sturdy and roomy — and nearly every travel writer I know swears by the Eagle Creek version.

A crossbody day bag

I use a State crossbody sling bag for carrying my wallet and passport, but don’t love it — the size isn’t suited for a long wallet. This Quince Italian Pebbled Leather Sling Bag ($50) and the Cotopaxi fanny pack ($18) are on my wishlist to replace it.

Bath salt

This Kneipp Arnica Bath Salt was in last year’s gift guide, but I need to tell you again how good it is for post-plane muscle ache relief. (Or post-pilates class, post-shoveling snow, PMS cramps, etc etc etc.) These one-bath packets ($11) are perfect for a hotel bath soak.

A waterproof bag

I gifted a waterproof zip bag to a friend who frequents hot springs (for work purposes), so she could bring back her wet suit without soaking everything else in her luggage. The smart, family travel-minded PAK Rêve makes a chic waterproof wristlet ($49) that can double as a clutch for a night out.

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Post-flight beauty products

When the plane sucks every ounce of moisture out of your skin, add it back with under eye patches like Patchology Serve Chilled On Ice Firming Eye Gels ($15), hand cream like La Roche-Posay Cicaplast ($12), and Laneige lip mask ($24). If you haven’t tried the Laneige lip mask yet, it actually works as promised. I got the hand cream at CityPharma in Paris over the summer and love it, and my cool cousin told me these under eye patches help cure her jet lag.

A travel pillow

A travel editor told me she doesn’t leave home without the Trtl neck pillow ($60) and now it’s on my wishlist.

The world’s best suitcase

If you know someone who’s been extra good this year, get them the Briggs & Riley Essential 22" Carry-On Expandable Spinner ($699), aka the world’s best suitcase. I bought a version for myself nearly 20 years ago and still use it on every trip. It’s tough and sturdy, always looks good, and can fit a remarkable amount of belongings for a carry on. (I once used it on a week-long trip to Norway in the winter and didn’t have to check a bag. I did pack the aforementioned Samsonite tote, though, so I could bring home my weight in Melkesjokolade chocolate bars, Kvikk Lunsj, and bags of Smash.) The best part about this bag is the lifetime guarantee. My husband has one too, and over the summer, a wheel came off at the airport in Marseille. Customer service sent a new wheel kit to our Airbnb and it saved him from having to drag a broken suitcase for the rest of the trip. It’s pricey, but if you divide it by the number of years I’ve owned it, or the number of trips I’ve taken it on, it’s a steal.

A digital Saltete guide

Send them a digital, interactive guide to a place they’re planning to go this year, or one they’ve been dreaming about, like:

Drinking and Dining Around London

A Guide to the New Paris Coffee and Restaurants

Venice with Ciao Bella

Jo Piazza’s Ultimate Guide to Traveling in Sicily

Katie Parla’s Rome

Everything Good in CDMX

Cheeky's Pantelleria Guide

Shay’s Ultimate Disney World Food Guide

The Near Me feature (screenshot ^^) helped us find our favorite aperitivo spot from the Katie Parla’s Rome guide.

Itineraries — like this one for Epcot ^^ from Shay Spence’s Ultimate Disney World Food Guide — have spot-by-spot recommendations for how to make the most of a day.

Before Tyler Akin opened Le Cavalier, a modern French brasserie at the Gilded Age-era Hotel DuPont in Wilmington, Delaware, he spent entire days researching the setting’s history, poring over old photos and menus at nearby Hagley Museum & Library. (The gorgeous restaurant was on Food & Wine’s inaugural “Global Tastemakers” list this year.)

The Philadelphia-based chef-partner, who runs Form-Function Hospitality, creating bar and restaurant concepts for hoteliers and developers, is set to open Bastia next week. The coastal Mediterranean restaurant at new Hotel Anna & Bel in Philadelphia’s Fishtown neighborhood centers around seafood (and also in-season vegetables and spritzes) which all pair perfectly with the property’s surprising European coastal vibe. True to form, while he was preparing to open, he did his research.

Earlier this year, Akin spent time off the coasts of France and Italy — on the islands of Corsica and Sardinia — to watch farmer’s make sheep’s milk cheese, visit a bottarga production facility, tour vineyards, and generally taste his way around this beautiful, sun-soaked corner of the Mediterranean.

Below, the chef shares his best tips on how to get there, what to do, and (most importantly) where to eat, including a Sunday market in Bastia that might alone be worth the trip.

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Where: Corsica, France and Sardinia, Italy

With the upcoming opening of our restaurant Bastia at Hotel Anna & Bel in Philadelphia’s Fishtown neighborhood looking to these two islands as primary influences, it made sense to get there and immerse for a bit. 

Arrived by:

This was a great opportunity to use French Bee, which is a low-cost carrier that connects Newark with Paris-Orly. Orly is where flights from Paris to Corsica originate—daily to the capital city (and birthplace of Napoleon!) Ajaccio, or to our namesake Bastia on the opposite coast of the island. My wife and I had a great experience with the premium class of a French Bee flight returning from Paris last year. Their fares in this section typically fall between the economy and premium economy rates on a major carrier like United or American, but the experience is very similar in terms of space and amenities.

Although my first night was booked in Bastia, I had to come in through Ajaccio due to connection timing. You should absolutely rent a car in Corsica because a) the driving is incredibly fun, if at times treacherous and b) besides an historic railway that connects a few cities in northern Corsica, it’s pretty much the only way to get around. 

For the next leg, I boarded my (Hertz) rental car on a ferry from Bonifacio to Santa Teresa Gallura on the northern tip of Sardinia. There are several routes in both directions each day—it’s a 45-minute ride across the straits separating the two islands and about 40 euros each way with a car. Various destinations in Corsica and Sardinia can be reached by ferry from Marseilles, Porto di Civitavecchia, Livorno, Palermo, etc. Sardinia can also be accessed by air to its capital Cagliari, but never direct from the States. The two islands are also connected by longer ferries between Ajaccio and Porto Torres. 

Stayed:

In the off-season many hotels are shuttered, so I stayed at some great Airbnbs along the way. In Cagliari I stayed at the magnificent Palazzo Doglio, and in Ajaccio I stayed at the recently-renovated and very cool Hotel San Carlu Citadel. One AirBnB I booked was inside the citadel at Bonifacio and had the most breathtaking view and historic feel; I think it ruined Airbnb for me forever. It was seriously magical, and cheap at 80 euros a night.

Ate:

It’s worth building an itinerary around being in Bastia on Sunday morning so you can attend the incredible market there—you can try many of the specialties beloved by Corsicans. In addition to stunning produce and mobile butchers with beautiful veal and pork, there are rotisseurs (offering chicken and pork), charcutiers (especially Les Délices de Castellu by Chef Alexia Guillen), and vendors with incredible honeys and marmalades. But the main event is the pastry offerings. Savory beignets stuffed with brocciu cheese or laced with zucchini, and sweet ones dusted in sugar, including my favorite: apple. Just amazing. Also not to miss: fiadone (a cheesecake made with brocciu and lemon zest, not dissimilar from the Basque style. Migliaccioli, which are griddled little pancakes studded with brocciu also shouldn’t be missed. Brocciu is clearly the thickest thread here: like a firm ricotta in texture, but funkier due to the sheep’s and/or goat’s milk with which it’s made.

Bastia also boasts some great restaurants by Pierre-Francois Maestracci, whose family is steeped in wine-making in Patrimonio—the cradle of excellent Corsican wine production. He leads the Slow Food movement in Corsica and runs Taberna Ribella and Le Minotaure, the two most excellent restaurants in Bastia. By his side at these places and his Ribella brewery biologique in Patrimonio wine country is Chef Antoine Acquaviva, who paid his dues under Alain Ducasse. 

A stop in Corte, the old inland capital and university town with a stunning citadel that defies gravity, must include a stop at Frittelle Curtinese. Their beignets and herb pie (a chard-stuffed pastry that in this case is made like a hand pie but is often elsewhere wedged out of a large round) are the best there are. 

Bonifacio is a must-see, but don’t expect many restaurant options in the off-season. I cooked myself dinner in my Airbnb while there. 

And on to Sardinia …

You will find the most perfect bowl of pasta, spaghetti con la bottarga, at Focacceria Creuza De Ma. It’s a short walk from the ferry pier and you’ll find the alchemy of spaghetti, pasta water, olive oil, bottarga, and a little crushed red pepper. 

There are so many amazing places to eat in Sardinia, but it’s worth focusing on Cagliari because it’s a magical city full of delicious things. Framento makes world class pizzas with lots of fermentation in the dough. Sabores is a really excellent wine bar featuring producers we’d call “natural” and a great way to start a night that might lead to dinner at Antica Cagliari where the pastas are excellent. Su Cumbidu is a giant restaurant in a cellar-like space and offers tons of Sardinian hits. It’s a great place to grab some roasted suckling pig if you don’t have the time to visit an agriturismo spit-roasting the whole animal. The gelato at I Fenu is as good as it gets. Finally, and hat tip to Letitia Clark for many of these recommendations, Distrizio Pasticceria has masterful cannoli and maritozzi that blew my mind.  

Adventured:

Plan to spend a couple of days tooling around Cap Corse, the peninsula north of Bastia. In-season, Centuri boasts the country’s best spiny lobsters and sea urchins. Pino and Nonza are the perfect cliffside villages, perched above and cascading down toward the Mediterranean. A hike around Luri while crossing from the east to west side of Cap Corse is a great way to spend an afternoon. The driving in Cap Corse is life-affirming, as you wind along cliffs that fall a thousand feet to gorgeous waters.

If you are super adventurous, the T20 to D69 route from Corte to Quenza and Zonza on your way south to Porto Vecchio and then Bonifacio rewards brave drivers with unbelievable vistas. It is a seriously harrowing route through the rugged mountains of Corsica’s interior, where peaks quickly reach higher elevations than anywhere in the continental U.S.

In Cagliari, the San Benedetto Market is incredible. Fishmongers and bottarga vendors dominate the first floor of this sprawling indoor market, and the second floor is packed with really beautiful produce and baked goods. There’s also a very good grocer stall to stock up on pantry items that U.S. customs hopefully treat with mercy. San Benedetto made me wonder why our clementines aren’t quite as sweet, our greens not quite as green, our tomatoes not quite so perfect. Among pretty much everything else grown in Sardinia and sold at the market. 

The nuraghe of Sardinia are Bronze Age megaliths from the second and first millenia BCE that litter the island. With 7000 fully documented, there are countless opportunities for minor detours to put life in perspective a little bit while road-tripping Sardinia.

A few weeks ago, I was sitting in an aisle seat on a plane from Philadelphia to Arizona, on the way to Reno, Nevada. A family hurried on, with four (4!) adults— including two parents and two grandparents—and two young kids.

Apparently, American Air gave the boys (about 6 and 9 years old) seats next to me, and put the parents and grandfather in the row ahead of us. The grandmother was sitting alone in a middle seat a few rows back.

I immediately offered to switch seats with one of the parents, but they declined, saying they’d “figure it out once we got in the air.”

It only took me a minute to realize what was happening: they were trying to saddle me with their children for the roughly five hour flight. By then, though, it was too late. We were taking off, and I was getting inadvertently kicked by a manspreading 9-year-old who was simultaneously inhaling snacks, spraying Cheeto dust in my general direction with every messy handful he shoveled into his mouth.

I’m pretty non-confrontational, but I decided I had to say something. I calmed myself with the thought that these parents likely didn’t realize what they were doing, and the second the seatbelt sign dinged off I gathered my things, jumped out of my seat, and tapped the dad on the shoulder.

What followed was an awkward minute or two of me saying “Let’s switch!” and him saying “That’s ok!” and me saying, “Nope, it’s better if we switch!” until his wife sitting next to him finally said “She wants to switch seats,” in a resigned way, as if the jig was up.

It turns out, they fully knew what they were doing. I know this because when the drinks cart came by, the mom ordered a glass of champagne and immediately started streaming 90210. And also because she told me. She said, in between guzzling bubbles, it was the first flight she hasn’t sat next to her children in seven years. The rest of the flight, I worked and listened to the dad complain about how annoying their kids were being.

Truthfully, the kids were fine. They were kids. But I have my own and wouldn’t dream of trying to foist them on some unsuspecting person traveling child-free.

It was a long travel day — flights were delayed, connections were missed — but it was well worth it to get to Reno, an incredible city with so much art and culture and cool things happening. And at least I didn’t have to babysit someone else’s kids on the way.

It’s been a minute since I had such a flimsy grasp on a language, though. I speak passable Italian (rusty in general, elite-level in ordering food/drink), and took enough high school French to translate a menu or a sign in a train station. I don’t, however, speak any Spanish. And even though my three daughters take classes in school, there wasn’t a pressing need to talk about colors, or ask for directions to the library on this particular trip.

So although many locals kindly spoke English with us, when it came time to perusing a menu, I had to break out my phone and tediously feed words into Google Translate* to decipher our options. Until my husband Eric showed me a trick.

He took a photo of the menu and uploaded it to ChatGPT, and within three seconds, we had an English menu to pass around the table. Magic!

He also used it to take a photo of the bill to cross check what we ordered. And when we encountered a funny sign in a little park, we got an instant translation with a ChatGPT voice conversation. (See the screenshot below.)

My takeaway? As a writer, I have a healthy fear of generative AI. But there are infinite ways to use it, and I’m here for finding the ones that make travel more seamless.

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*As I frequently remind my long-suffering children, I didn’t have the benefit of a cell phone, travel booking websites, or Google maps, let alone Google Translate, so I do appreciate it!